Are you tired of the junky old wooden cutting board in your kitchen? Well, there is nothing to worry about. What you need is to have a proper understanding of the effect of using the best oil for a wood cutting board. You have to seal your wood cutting board in a proper manner to get an amazing result.
You may come across thousands of tutorials and products online to help you protect and maintain wood surfaces. It doesn’t matter whether it’s a cutting board or any other cutting product. Identifying effective tips can be confusing because information and tips vary greatly from website to website. Some people prefer mineral oils, specialty products (often very expensive), or mixtures of wax and oils. But there is an impressive protective recommendation. Those are very simple yet environmentally friendly solutions better known: Tung oil and polymerized linseed oil. This has to be preferred to other popular existing solutions.
Solutions of How to Clean an Old Wooden Cutting Board:
When using a knife to cut food on a wooden surface, a film-forming layer should be avoided as the knife quickly breaks down the film layer on the surface, and water, blood, and sap can penetrate the wood. Then the coating becomes irreversible, and after the surface is completely sanded, the finishing process must be completely repeated.
It should be kept in mind that if you do not have decorative or serviceable parts, it is better to use an effective coating such as grease, oil/wax mixture, or thinned varnish (uncoated). These solutions are easier to use, maintain and repair. A properly applied coating will protect the wood’s appearance for decades.
Soybean oil, nuts, or rice bran oil do not dry out, but they cannot turn rancid like olive oil. They are very easy to apply, but they do not harden in wood. Making the protection more fragile and more durable than Tung oil. However, as mentioned above, this can be a very attractive option. Because it is a completely natural solution when combined with wax. Also, it can be easily applied without a solvent, as is the case with tung oil.
Mineral oils are very popular with many professionals, especially in the UK, Canada, and the USA. Although mineral oil is a by-product of petroleum, it is odorless, colorless, and tasteless. Moreover, it completely inert, and approved as a food additive. Mineral oil is inert and does not dry out. If used, it is ideal for waxing and frequent reapplications to limit protection. However, this is the most economical solution and is very easy to apply with a clean cloth.
The dry strength of an oil is its ability to dry and solidify when exposed to oxygen. By exposing oxygen, it creates a solid polymer that is very similar to plastic. When the oil in wood fibers dries and hardens, it stays liquid. But provides stronger and longer-lasting cut protection. Also, repeats cleaning than a dry oil, which is not solid and only saturates the fibers. Drying the oil isn’t necessarily a bad option.
However, since the wax wears out slowly and the oil slowly flows out of the wood with each wash, the protective effect is poor and the durability is high. So, if you want to use non-dry oil, you need to apply it much more often than completely dry oil.
Traditional (unrefined) flaxseed oil is a dry oil and is more liquid than Tung oil. Since it gets dry in a pure form within 5-7 days, it is usually sold with the addition of dry salt from cobalt, manganese, and zirconium. The orange tint gives the tree a yellowish tint, which gives the tree a whimsical look. In general, flaxseed oil does not cause inconvenience with the dryer(considered safe for food contact surfaces). But it is an attractive alternative if it provides slightly more protection than Tung oil. Olive oil is recommended on many sites, but you should avoid it!
Like most cooking oils, olive oil does not dry out but becomes rotten and sticky over time. This causes an unpleasant odor on the cut side of the product and makes it inconvenient to handle. Blends of oils and waxes are very popular and are often preferred over undried oils on the surface of the final particles to keep the oil in the granules and prevent leakage to the surface.
In addition, it provides better overall protection and a nicer shine than the self-drying oil used. Many professional carpenters have their own recipes for oils and waxes that they sell to their customers. Beeswax, paraffin wax, or carnauba wax is usually melted and mixed with oil in a ratio of 1 part wax to 5 parts oil. When choosing this mixture, carnauba wax is the best choice because it is the hardest wax and therefore has the best shelf life. If you’re using drying oils like flaxseed or paulownia, you don’t need wax, but it gives the board a glossy finish. Although oil-wax mixtures are much more stable than dry oils, they should be used more often, but many people prefer this alternative. However, it is very easy to use.
Tung Oil Solution:
Tung oil is a vegetable oil that is usually sold in pure form. It comes from the seeds of the fruit of the Tung tree native to Southeast Asia. The most interesting thing about Tung oil is that it is very tidal, so it penetrates the wood, dries up, and completely hardens into the fibers. However, it is a very thick oil with a characteristic odor (although not harsh). For this reason, it is recommended to be diluted.
You should have an inclination for Tung Oil and Polymerized Linseed that completes on the grounds that since they offer the safest and most tough arrangement when contrasted with different other options while being anything but difficult to apply. Neither contains any added substance or siccative (drier). Do these two completing techniques sound like a decent arrangement for you? See underneath how to clean your cutting board to keep it up to date.
What you will require:
•Polymerized Linseed oil (we suggest Tried and True items)
•A clean plastic compartment with a limit of 100 ml (3 fl. oz.) or more.
•Pure Tung Oil and Solvent
•800 coarseness sandpaper (discretionary)
•Small, Clean Cotton Rags (in any event 5 for the entire cycle)
•Small wood or plastic squares or backing for Finishing and Drying
•A pair of Nitrile gloves
Bit by bit Instructions
Preparing and Cleaning:
1.Sanded: Make sure the board is spotless and earth-free. Ensure that the board has been recently sanded.
2.Tung Oil Finishing: For an aggregate of 4 coats (suggested) on a medium measured cutting board, blend 30ml (1 fl oz. or then again 2 tablespoons) of Tung Oil and a similar amount of dissolvable in a perfect beneficiary. The blend can be saved for quite a while in the event that you arranged a lot for your requirements, and can be utilized to apply a support coat each year.
3.True Oil Finishing: For a sum of 3 coats (suggested) on a medium-measured cutting board, the item will be utilized unadulterated, and you ought to hope to use around 1.5 liquid ounces or 3 tablespoons.
4.Apply oil on the surface: Soak a cotton cloth in the combination of oil and dissolve and apply the oil onto the surface in a roundabout movement, guaranteeing that the whole surface and the sides are secured. Try not to leave any overabundant oil on a superficial level.
5.Rehash both parts: Turn the board and lay the treated surface over wood or plastic backings on the 4 sides, and rehash the past advance for the rear of the board.
6.Tung Oil Finishing: Once the board is treated, ensure that a time period of 15 minutes is permitted to ingest all the oil it can. At that point, clear off all the surfaces. There must not stay any oil on a superficial level. Contingent upon the drying climate, some oil may ascend to the surface following a couple of hours. If so, basically utilize a perfect material and wipe once more. Permit to dry 24 to 36 hours at room temperature in a dry spot.
Attempted and True Oil Finishing:
You should allow the Varnish to oil and the Original Wood Finish enter the wood for at any rate an hour prior totally clearing off the surface, and let dry at any rate for 24 hours. For Danish Oil, stand by 15 minutes (same as Tung oil completing)
Cleaning and keeping up your cutting board
Despite the completion on your board, cleaning it should just require hot foamy water and a little delicate brush. Abstain from putting the board totally in water, and never put a wood cutting board in a dishwasher. Critical temperature variation and a lot of water will harm the wood, and may break sheets produced using a few sections stuck together. In the wake of cleaning the surface, clean it with an off material and let the board dry remaining on its long side.
To eliminate stains and scents on a surface, rub with salt and a spotless cloth subsequent to having flushing it. For difficult smells, you can likewise rub the board with a lemon or lime and let the acidic juice manage its responsibility. Let stand 2-3 minutes and wipe the board with a sodden fabric, at that point let it dry remaining on its long side.
A fascinating option in contrast to standard cleanser, vinegar, and fade arrangements is Olive Oil based Black Soap, suggested by some specialists. It is a 100% normal and biodegradable arrangement that eliminates oil proficiently. It has antibacterial properties and will clean and sustain wood surfaces without being as forceful on the wood. As the previously mentioned arrangements (dye and vinegar), which are famous however can harm the wood after some time.
At last, it is sheltered practice to utilize various surfaces to cut vegetables and meat (particularly chicken), to maintain a strategic distance from cross pollution. A typical practice is to utilize one side of your board for the vegetables and the other for the meat.
Congratulations! You have become a specialist in cleaning wood surfaces as you know all the secret tips from now on. You will not have to worry a bit about experiencing the nightmare of wooden cutting board maintenance.